Retro Traveler’s Guide to Las Vegas

Viva Vintage Las Vegas

In the world of travel blogging with a focus on vintage and kitsch, it’s easy to find the top few recommendations. Beyond that, I’m left trying to index more unique finds.

In lieu of being unique in travel blogging, I will strive to offer unique Retro Traveler’s Guides centered around useful and retro-inspired picks based on my candid experiences.

I am starting with Las Vegas, a place where it can be harder to find real “vintage” than you would think. In the spirit of attracting as many tourists as possible, there are less and less relics of the Las Vegas I pine for.

Save these maps for your trip!

Oldest Hotels in Las Vegas

Golden Gate Hotel & Casino (1906) - Old Vegas
El Cortez (1941) - Old Vegas
The Golden Nugget (1946) - Old Vegas
Flamingo (1946) - On-strip
Sahara (1952) - On-strip
Tropicana (1957) - On-strip
The LINQ (1959) - On-strip
Caesars Palace (1966) - On-strip
Circus Circus (1968) - On-strip
Harrah’s (1971) - On-strip
Plaza Hotel & Casino (1971) - Old Vegas

The strip vs. old vegas

It might surprise you to know, I love Las Vegas. I always agree to attend work conferences that most bemoan and gleefully accept bachelorette party invites. These trips are always centered on the strip, a shiny, albeit mostly more expensive tourist zone. But when left to my own devices, I seek the vintage nooks and crannies full of nostalgic kitsch.

The Strip: the 4 mile stretch of Las Vegas Boulevard that is roughly between Sahara Avenue and Russell Road.

Old Vegas/”Downtown”: The original Las Vegas strip, home to many classic casinos and vintage treasures

My recommendation for retro travelers: stay in Old Vegas.
Even though the majority of the oldest hotels are on-strip, because of their location they have been mostly re-imagined for the modern tourist and no longer hold their vintage charm beyond their exterior.

Advantages of staying in Old Vegas:

Close to tons of Vintage attractions: a quick ride away from vintage shopping in the Arts District, proximity to the Neon Graveyard, Mob Museum, and classic casinos.
Less Expensive: Further from the strip, you will without a doubt save a few bucks on accommodations, food, drinks and even gambling with better odds and lower minimums.
Charm: this may seem like a cheap reason, but to me, it’s the most compelling. The people I met in Old Vegas, bellmen at the El Cortez and Craps dealers at the Plaza, are old school stans for Vegas. They remember vintage Vegas and hell, they are still living it.

Even though I recommend it, I want to be clear that (just like with the strip) there are also some disadvantages of staying in Old Vegas:

Distance to popular attractions: shows like Cirque du Soleil (big fan - highly recommend Ka and O), or musician residencies are going to be on the strip - so instead of a quick walk or Lyft you’ll likely end up spending about $20-30+ getting there each way by cab or ride share. Depending on your other cost savings, this may still be worth it.
Sketchier?: I’ve traveled around alone in both spots, I felt less comfortable walking at night in Old Vegas. I was catcalled numerous times, saw at least two people taking shits and noted more evidence of hard drug use. Can you find these things on the strip? Yes. But in Old Vegas, there is less fanfare balancing it out and in closer proximity to your hotel. Like any urban area, just stay aware especially when drinking.
Smokier in older hotels: even though most hotels ban smoking in rooms, but allow smoking in casinos and some outdoor spaces, the rooms hold varying degrees of smoky stench. Older hotels hold memories, and smoke with a tighter grip.

My Hotel Recommendations

EL CORTEZ (1941): as Vintage Vegas as it gets

The El Cortez was the first “resort-style” hotel in Las Vegas when it was opened in 1941. It has lived a rich mob history - purchased in 1945 by Bugsy Siegel, Meyer Lansky, Gus Greenbaum and Moe Sedway.
The exterior remains unchanged, the smoke-filled casino interior still boasts low ceilings, heavy rich wood tones and warm lighting, genuinely feeling like a step into the past. The staff and casino dwellers are unpretentious, friendly and full of old-school charm.
Even though the exterior and casino level remain unchanged, the rooms are in various stages of renovations:
- Tower rooms just went through renovations and lean contemporary, but this is where I stayed and felt they still had a classic vintage vibe
- According to the front desk, The Vintage and Pavillion rooms are currently going through restorations but will not be updated to have a contemporary feel like the Tower Rooms
- In 2008 the hotel acquired the Ogden Hotel across the street and turned it into the Cabana Suites. The building is from 1975, but the rooms have a very green funky retro aesthetic but didn’t seem to offer anything exceptional by comparison.
- Staying in the former owner, Jackie Gaughan’s suite is on my bucket list. You might remember this location from Ellie Goulding’s music video “On My Mind

via The Jackie Gaughan Suite at the El Cortez

Why I recommend the El Cortez:

You get a true vintage Las Vegas experience in one of the oldest hotels left in Las Vegas (second to the Golden Gate)
Value for your money: On average, you’ll pall pay 30-50% less at least vs. strip hotels for a similar size room. The “Amenities” fee is $24, vs. the average resort fee on the strip ~$50+ with the biggest difference being access to nice pools and multiple on-site restaurants and experiences. If you plan to leave the hotel for nearby experiences, this doesn’t feel like a deal-breaker to me. At least for the room I stayed in, it was nicely updated and very importantly, felt clean with sleek vintage-inspired style.
Free Parking: great if you want to rent a car and drive to see the Grand Canyon or Boulder City
Location is a block away from the Fremont Street Experience, a covered pedestrian experience that is definitely a rowdy, lively vibe tunneling you through Old Vegas entrances to the Golden Nugget, 4 Queens, The Golden Gate, and more

What are the drawbacks? I noticed the smell of smoke more in the rooms than other newer hotels, as expected but I wouldn’t call it smoky. If you want on-site entertainment or food options and don’t gamble you are limited within the Hotel.

CIRCA: vintage vibe, modern appeal in Old Vegas

The Circa is new, opening in October 2020, but is also located near the Fremont Street Experience in Old Vegas. This makes the Circa the best of both worlds, bringing the modern resort amenities and energy of the Strip to the charm of Old Vegas.

Circa is under the same ownership and is right next door to the oldest hotel that remains in Las Vegas, the Golden Gate which opened in 1905. This was the first spot to serve a $0.50 shrimp cocktail in 1959. I am interested to see if the Golden Gate remains unchanged, or this ownership dynamic will see a merging of the two experiences in the future.

Why I recommend the Circa:

If you want a resort experience in Old Vegas, especially traveling with a group and looking for on-site experiences this is a great option that merges Old Vegas and new. This would be great for Bachelorette parties and groups who want an experience like the strip, but like the idea of Old Vegas charm and cost savings.
Value for your Money: more expensive than old casino hotels like the El Cortez by about $50 a night, it was still much cheaper for similar offerings on the strip. The resort fee is $35 which gets you a lot more on-site than other nearby hotels.
Hip, upscale, large rooms: I stayed in a double King (which you don’t often see, usually double Queen) and it was spacious with super fun retro-inspired decor while still being sleek and modern.
Food & Drink has a lot to offer on-site, especially Saginaw’s Deli which had killer sandwiches. It’s pricier but with portions that feel justified.
Even though the Stadium Swim, 6-pools facing a 40-foot screen playing sports, was not for me…it could be a fun vibe if you actually like sports or want to have a party atmosphere for your trip. I thought it felt like a club, and frankly, it’s a little too loud and a little too sexy for my taste.

What are the drawbacks? If you want real historical lodging, this isn’t it but it does hit the mark for retro-inspired and high-quality in the area. If you want a super quiet relaxing poolside resort experience, this isn’t it.

Neither of these ring a bell for you?

Here’s a budget-friendly mid-century modern inspired boutique hotel that resembles a 1960s motel with on-site putt-putt and a pool:
The Downtowner

Frankie’s Tiki Room: When you think OG tiki-kitsch you may think of Disneyland’s Enchanted Tiki Room in the 1960s. The grandson of the guy who designed that spot, just so happens to be Bamboo Ben, who we can thank for the perfectly divey Frankie’s interiors. But don’t be fooled by the tourist vibes defined by Tiki bars, Frankie’s boasts an impressive variety of premium rums and a large menu of cocktail classics and originals. Smoking is allowed inside, buy yourself a souvenir cup for $25, there’s no food menu and definitely try the Fink Bomb.

More Tiki: The Golden Tiki
Dole Whip drinks and a full food menu!

Golden Steer Steakhouse (1958): Old school fine-dining good enough for Elvis. Low-lit, leather clad booths adorned with the names of their most famous patrons include the likes of: Elvis, Muhammed Ali, Frank Sinatra, Joe DiMaggio, Marilyn Monroe, and more. If you call to make your reservation, you can even request your favorite. Serving a classic steakhouse menu at classic higher-end steakhouse prices, the vibe and overall food was worth the price for a special occasion.

I like anything with a little showmanship, so I would recommend the tableside homemade Caesar salad (this comes with the Chateaubriand for two which also has tableside carved steak) and the tableside fired Bananas Foster for dessert. The steak was a little underwhelming to be honest, but the experience and other dishes made up for it.

Peppermill (1972): Unbeatable kitsch-classic interiors for late night drinks. Scorsese’s Casino was filmed here. They are open until 2am Thursday-Sunday, great for a late-night drink in the Fireside lounge which features a sunken living room-style fireplace with wrap-around seating.

ONLY if you are there with a group, try the famous 64-ounce Scorpian drink made with vodka, rum, brandy, vanilla ice cream, orange juice, and a splash of grenadine.

Atomic Liquors (1945 - originally Virginia’s Cafe): Oldest freestanding bar in Las Vegas, once a watering hole for Frank Sinatra and named for watching the atomic bomb testing from a nearby roof.

Vickie’s Diner: well regarded greasy spoon diner that used to be located on-strip in the old White Cross Drugs where Elvis dined at the lunch counter in the 70s. The classic menu and pink booths now have a new home closer to Old Vegas.

The Arts District: From Old Vegas, take a quick ride to the Arts District for amazing antique malls, vintage clothing shops, independent boutiques, restaurants and bars. Known as Antique Alley as a home for retro-inspired businesses.

Whether you love vintage fashion or interiors, you will have enough shopping in just this area for a full day depending on your pace.

The larger antique malls (Antique Alley Mall, Main Street Peddlars, Vintage Vegas Antiques) are on Main St. and feature many vendors along with several other smaller boutiques along your way. There are several other shops to check out on surrounding streets all within walking distance.

Drink Break: craft cocktail, retro patio & vintage photo-strip break in the Arts District - Velveteen Rabbit

Plaza Casino & Hotel (1971): Cheap bets and killer views. I don’t gamble, mostly for lack of understanding. However, I watched my friends play multiple rounds of $15 minimum Craps at the Plaza Casino and it seemed much more fun than any on-strip gambling I’ve observed. The dealers were mostly cute old men who came to Vegas 40+ years ago, never left and never plan to. I may venture to stay at this hotel next time.

While there, pop-up to Oscar’s Steakhouse for a drink and a great view.

The Fremont Street Experience: for a lively night out with excellent people watching. This is a covered pedestrian mall that funnels you through many landmark casinos in Old Vegas. These include: Binion's Gambling Hall and Hotel, Circa Resort & Casino, The D Las Vegas, Four Queens, Fremont Hotel and Casino, Golden Gate Hotel and Casino & the Golden Nugget Las Vegas

As downtown was developed this area was referred to as the “Glitter Gulch” because of it’s dense neon signs on Fremont Street.

The newer attractions contribute to the chaotic vibe of the present-day Fremont Street Experience like the LED canopy and zip-lines overhead. There are several music stages throughout the experience, most nights these feature free cover bands of the 80s butt-rock variety.

The crowd is definitely a little seedier than your average on-strip experience and it’s definitely not something I’d do on my own at night without a group looking to have a good time.

The Mob Museum: For the true crime and history fan. Vintage Vegas was built on organized crime, this museum puts Las Vegas history in the context of the mob - complete with a prohibition-era speakeasy in the basement that makes it’s own Moonshine.

The Neon Museum: For the design junkie. See Vintage Vegas that has been erased from the roadside with classic neon signs laid to rest at the Neon graveyard. This is a great museum to experience both during the day and night.

National Atomic Testing Museum: For the history and science buff. Las Vegas in the 1950s witnessed mushroom clouds rise from the Nevada Test Site (NTS), the country’s nuclear testing location just 65 miles outside the city. In fact, some casinos even offered people seats so they could sit and watch.

Pinball Hall of Fame: Cheap, family fun. 10,000 square-feet of classic pinball machines, many dating back to the 1950s.

Burlesque Hall of Fame: truly unique museum dedicated to the art of burlesque. Small but mighty exhibits in the Arts District featuring history, props and costumes.

Shows

The Rat Pack is Back - the Copa Room in the Tuscany Suites & Casino:
I did the dinner & show package which included a classic Italian 4-course meal at the Tuscany Gardens restaurant in the Casino costing about $120. This also required a 20-minute ride-share from Old Vegas.

The good: Not sure if I’m the best judge of Italian food but the 4-course meal was delicious and a good value, the performers playing Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin and Sammy Davis Jr. were musically very talented, there was a live backing band and the show was generally a fun step back into the 50s/60s.

The bad: the venue was smaller than I expected, possibly a bit too intimate to give Copa scale vibes. The performance leaned too heavily into values we should leave in the 50s/60s. Even though they prefaced some of the most absurd moments of callbacks to racist and sexist jokes with “don’t forget it’s the 50s!” — it felt cheap, unnecessary and dominated too much of the show.

Shows with retro-inspiration for next visit:

Absinthe at Caesars: classic vaudevillian vibes with a modern twist

Vegas: The Show at Planet Hollywood Saxe Theatre: The story of Vegas featuring performances centered around Elvis, the Rat Pack, Tom Jones, classic showgirls and more with a live orchestra.

Cirque du Soleil Beatle’s LOVE at the Mirage

Australian Bee Gees at Excalibur